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Thread: (UPDATE) ALTEC LANSING 604-8G PLEASE HELP ME

  1. #31
    Inactive Member dgwojo's Avatar
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    Ron,
    You're correct as we get older our eyes get weaker, I have to put reading glasses on to do this work now. Unless totally gone, I try to just bridge the wires, you can actually get more slack by unsoldering the top input post as the copper is wrapped around it, you can push more of the lead ribbon wire toward the phragms dome, a toothpick actually is used to hold the lead wires in the bakelite. Dave.

  2. #32
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    Another possible method (inspired by Art J's solder wick solution) that I haven't yet tried (but intend to) would be to remove the existing lead from the terminal to the break, and replacing it with a lightweight tinsel lead for max flexibility, taking care to minimize solder wicking up the tinsel.

    Alternatively, gaining some lead length with Dave's trick, putting a new bend very near the end, and re-securing the lead before soldering, allows you to tension the 2 ends so they stay together (end to end)and moves the repair out of the critical bend for durability.

    Whatever method used, pre-tinning both ends is a big help. Done properly, no further solder need be added, freeing up a hand for other purposes (like steadying the iron).

    When one considers the difference in cross section between the lead and the coil wire, it becomes obvious that lead breaks are caused by mechanical fatigue rather than overcurrent. While I'm as bad as anyone at nickel-and-dime repairs to get the absolute maximum use of an item, I have to remind myself that the diaphragm suspension has endured at least as much excursion as the lead, and therefore may be beyond its' useful performance life.

    I can sure relate to the "old eyes" syndrome, but find h-h-holding the iron still for such fine work to be a bigger challenge. forums

  3. #33
    Inactive Member MikeInNH's Avatar
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    There's a simplier solution and I used it and it lasted for OVER 10 years.....Superglue the wires together. No soldering...just glue. Just be carefull NOT to superglue your fingers to the diaphram.

  4. #34
    Inactive Member dgwojo's Avatar
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    Good news, his 604-8G/23744 "light" diaphragm has been saved, the coil was good but both suspension leads were broke, I soldered and coated them and they work great now, I tested it in an 802 driver with a 511B horn, it sounded excellent, Dave.

    40

    41

  5. #35
    Senior Hostboard Member bowtie427ss's Avatar
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    WOW!

    Where's that dent from the screwdriver?

    Very nice Dave!

    To say i'm impressed would be a mild understatement.

    If you're for hire, i have a couple patients for you in the near future.

  6. #36
    Inactive Member dgwojo's Avatar
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    It took some coaxing but about 95% of the dent came out. I received the phragm on Frday afternoon and shipped it back to him Saturday, he should have it early this week and we'll wait for his report on how it works. I'm a bit concerned as he mentioned this morning the crossover doesn't work anymore, hopefully that didn't cause the diaphragm to blow in the first place. Hope he checks the crossover out, Dave.

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